July
2004, Issue 168
Easy
Reflow
Build
an SMT Reflow Oven Controller
by
Robert Lacoste
When
designing high-speed applications, working with SMT
components and soldering by hand can be tedious. Robert’s
H8/3687-based SMT Reflow Oven Controller transforms
a conventional infrared toaster oven into an effective
reflow oven that ensures thermal control.
For
years surface-mount technology (SMT) has been the manufacturing
technology of choice, particularly because it’s less
expensive than classic through-hole processes and because
of the reduction in board size. I’m sure you have noticed
that SMT is now mandatory for prototypes, even if a
project isn’t space-constrained. Many new and exciting
components are only available in SMT packages. High-speed
designs (using high-speed digital or radio frequencies)
won’t work using large through-hole packages.
It’s
possible to solder the majority of SMT components by
hand, but it’s painful and time-consuming. The components
must be soldered individually with either a small soldering
iron or a hot-air pencil. But small packages like 0603
resistors are likely to fly away when soldered with
hot air and stick to the soldering iron at the worst
time.
A
solution to this problem is to use reflow oven technology
just like the manufacturers do. A reflow oven is a well-controlled
oven that allows to you cook a PCB with its components
and solder all of the pads simultaneously with solder
paste. Great! The only issue is that reflow ovens cost
a fortune, ranging from $2,000 to $1 million. The ovens
cost so much because they need strictly controlled thermal
profiles to ensure good soldering and also to limit
the thermal stress on the components.
In
this article I’ll show you how a homemade controller
built around a Renesas evaluation board can transform
an inexpensive toaster oven into a reflow oven. First,
I’ll cover how reflow ovens work and explain which toasters
on the market are best suited to mimic them. Then, I’ll
describe my controller’s hardware and software. I’ll
finish up with some tips on how to assemble your own
SMT boards using the reflow oven. Let’s get hot.
REFLOW
OVEN
The
key to good reflow is a precise multistep thermal profile,
as illustrated in Figure 1. The preheating profile allows
you to slowly bring the PCB to a temperature high enough
to dry the solder paste (approximately 100°C) while
minimizing the risk of thermal stress on the components
in the reflow phase. After thermal stabilization, the
board is heated as quickly as possible to the reflow
temperature (approximately 250°C). The board stays above
the reflow temperature for a set period of time (usually
around 30 s) before it’s cooled down in a controlled
fashion.
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(Click
here to enlarge)
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Figure
1—In order to achieve reliable solders and to minimize
thermal stress on components, a precise thermal
profile must be used with four successive steps. |
What
are the key characteristics of an industrial reflow
oven? Quick heating and cooling is important (the quicker
the better) in order to reduce the thermal stress on
the components. (The pads and solder paste have a lower
thermal latency than the components themselves.) Maintaining
a homogeneous temperature inside the oven is also important,
especially when you’re working with large PCBs. And,
last but not least, regulation is a must in order to
guarantee that successive reflows follow the exact same
profile. As you can imagine, I will handle the regulation
with a microcontroller-based solution, so let’s focus
on the low-cost oven you’ll use to replace a real reflow
oven.
In
order to have a quick heating time, some industrial
reflow ovens use infrared heaters. Why not just buy
an infrared-based toaster oven like the one shown in
Photo 1? I bought mine on the ’Net for less than $150.
It has two quartz heating elements on the top and a
classic resistor on the bottom (a total of 1,100 W).
|

(Click
here to enlarge)
|
Photo
1—You must choose an appropriate toaster oven. For
the best results, find one with infrared heaters
on top that allow for a quick temperature rise.
This one, which was made in France, costs less than
$150. The thermocouple wire is on the left. |
I
used a thermocouple affixed on a small PCB to take the
first measurements. The temperature got up to 250°C
in less than 4 min., which is definitely enough for
this application. The only real drawback was the lack
of a cooling system. I decided to use a manual cooling
method: I open the door when the controller asks.